My last day in Naxos was idyllic. It was a leisurely day marked with no plans, where activities were dictated by my mood and desires… and the wind, literally.
Up Late
I had planned to wake up early to profit from a long day… but who was I kidding?! My body ached from all the exploration from the day before. The hiking at Delos and all the walking at Mykonos had taken its toll. I was exhausted! So I slept in. I woke up around 9:30. I got dressed and ready for the hotel breakfast where I sat at a small table outside overlooking the pool. It was windy and a little cloudy. I smiled. After the unbearable heat from the day before, I was glad for a reprieve.
A Stroll Through Town
After breakfast I took a stroll into town. I walked up and down the little alleyways. I climbed all the way to the Kastro (or castle). The view from there was fabulous. The sea and the white town lay at my feet. The wind was also picking up. I could see the white caped waves of the Aegean pepper the deep blue waters. I continued further into town until I reached an area that was empty of tourists. In fact, almost empty of people. Once I caught a glimpse of the sea, I realized that I had gone so far into my wanderings that I went around the port. This area was peaceful and quiet. There were no stores or hotels. It looked residential, but charming! The bougainvillea hung across houses and the steps and doors were marked with potted plants and bright flowers. I took advantage of the lack of tourists to take a few selfies. I took my iPhone tripod and placed my phone’s camera at the angle I wanted it. I stepped into the frame and using the remote control, I took pictures once I was satisfied with the image. I took a few of these selfies throughout this area of town.
The Windy Beach
I walked to Grotto Beach. The beach was framed by high cliffs to the right and the Temple of Apollo to the left. Normally, people will swim here, but today it was empty. And to no surprise. The wind was strong and unpleasant. It was coming from the north, straight into Grotto Beach. The wind whipped the waves, making them twice as powerful. This was kind of a bummer, because I had planned to come here to swim later in the day. Oh well… so much for my well-laid plans.
Shopping for All
I rounded Grotto Beach and walked into port. I love the Naxos port! I was trying to take it all in. The stores, the restaurants, the boats. I stopped at a jewelry shop and purchased a bracelet and matching pendant. The bracelet and pendant featured the eye of Naxos. Jewelry made from seashells. A winding gold circle atop a pearly white background. I got lucky, the jewelry shop was in the process of packing away for the season and everything was 50% off! I continued back to the hotel occasionally popping into a few shops where I bought some nice souvenirs. Kitchen décor for my sisters, magnets for my mother and grandmother, and little purses for some of my friends back home. Thinking of you Sara since you are back in Des Moines taking care of my plants!
I made a stop at the Ocean Club to enjoy a freddo cappuccino. I love this spot because it overlooks the port and is directly next to a rocky beach. Today, however, the wind robbed a little of its magic. I still enjoyed my drink watching the waves crash against the rocks, but the strong gusts were definitely a bother.
Poolside at the Hotel… the Perfect Spot
Back at the hotel, I changed into my swimsuit and walked to St. George Beach where the hotel has a few umbrellas. However, the wind was picking up even more. The once placid sea was restless and sand flew everywhere, carried by the sporadic gusts of winds. I decided to turn back and walk to the hotel pool. The hotel building blocked much of the wind from the pool area. I tried searching for an empty pool bed, but seems that most of the guests had a similar idea, to escape the annoying winds poolside. I found an empty table near the outside bar and plopped my stuff in.
I spent most of the day by at the pool following a similar pattern. Swim, get out and take sips of freddo cappuccino, then go back to the pool. At about 5pm I gathered my things and went to my room to take a shower. My plan was to watch the sunset from the best place in the island – the hill at Apollo’s Temple. I wore a long Spanish style dress and stepped into town.
Violent Winds at the Temple of Apollo
When I got to the port and was ready to walk the small isthmus that connects the port to Apollo’s Temple, I stopped dead on my tracks. More accurately, the powerful wind, stopped me on my tracks. The bothersome wind of the morning had transformed into a formidable force. My dress blew restless. My hair spiraled all over my face, so I had to tie it into a bun. I continued to walk. The sea at both sides of the isthmus was restless…. Actually, it looked almost angry. The powerful waves crashed against the isthmus at both sides, sending water flying up 15 feet in the air. There was a crowd in front of me that were vacillating, deciding whether to cross or not. The isthmus which is only about 15-20 feet across, was completely wet and slippery. I decided to push through the crowd and walk across. Then, a wave crashed to my right and a column of cold seawater descended over me. I was completely drenched. The closer I got to the temple, the worse the winds became. This time, sand was flying directly at me. The tiny grains shot up into my skin like bullets. It felt like a thousand little darts were hitting my face, arms and feet. A strong gust flew from the north and it almost knocked me backwards. This was the moment I decided to turn back. It wasn’t just unpleasant, it was dangerous to attempt to climb the hill. I wasn’t the only one with this thought. Others began turning back. As we crossed the isthmus to the mainland, more columns of water rained upon us. I would have to watch the sunset from somewhere else.
A Quiet Dinner
That somewhere else was a seafood restaurant at the port. Plastic covers lined the terrace of the restaurant to keep the wind out. It was warm and cozy in there. I enjoyed a Greek salad with a swordfish steak and a glass of wine.
On the way back to the hotel, I scurried down the busy alleyways that protected me from the merciless wind. I bid farewell to the shops and purchased a tiramisu gelato. Naxos is wonderful and I was going to miss it.
