My second and third day at Katerini were easy going and very relaxing. Through Katerina and her friends, I have felt exposed to the Greek way of life. It’s a life were personal and familial relationships are crucial, where things move slow, and life is enjoyed one coffee at a time.
Meeting Greek People at a Smoothie Shop and Trying out my Greek
On Tuesday morning, Katerina had a dentist appointment in town. While she was getting her teeth cleaned, I wandered through town. The fun (and sometimes intimidating) thing about Katerini is that it is not an internationally renowned Greek city. Although there is some tourism from Germany, Russia, and the Balkans, the tourists remain at the beachside and rarely venture into town. This means that the city is made for its Greek inhabitants: menus, storefronts, instructions, they are only Greek. Some people speak English but it is not as widespread as Athens or Thessaloniki. No English translations to help. Even the street signs display only the Greek alphabet. It was my opportunity to try out my Greek. Sink or swim, as they say. I went shopping for jewelry and clothes and asked for things as best I could in Greek. This meant a lot of pointing and random Greek words, but it did the trick!
After her appointment, Katerina took me to her favorite smoothie shop where I meet a lot of interesting people as I sipped a freddo cappuccino (which I ordered in Greek). In the smoothie shop there were Greeks that had lived in other countries like Germany, Greeks that spoke Spanish, Greeks that liked Salsa music. It was nice to sit and talk to Katerina’s friends and feel welcomed right away.
Coffee With an Old Friend
In the afternoon, Anthi, a friend of Katerina I had met last year, invited us to grab coffee at a bar/restaurant located in the woods about 20 minutes from town. We cruised along vineyards and hills while we listened to Anthi’s fabulous playlist of Spanish music, including Gente De Zona and Chayanne. I love Anthi. She is what I think of when I imagined Greek people. Slender with curly hair, delicate features, and a wide smile. I can certainly picture her in Disney’s Hercules. We had freddo cappuccino outside in the woods, talking about everything that had happened in our lives the past year… until the rain came! The rain was coming from Mount Olympus and we hastily made our way back to town. Even though our time was short, I was happy to have spent a few hours with Anthi.
Drinks With Law Enforcement and Language Reciprocity at Mount Olympus
Tuesday night, Katerina’s boyfriend Alexandros drove us to Litohoro, a popular village on Mount Olympus. Although its summer and the day had been hot in Katerini, once you ascend the mountain, the air becomes chilly. The earlier rain had left a cold humidity in the air and we had to wear sweaters. Alexandros led us to a very cool spot where water from the mountain runs through the woods. Restaurants and bars line the river and it is very lively.
I chose a spot overlooking the river and we ordered a bottle of wine and snacks. Alexandros is Katerina’s boyfriend and he is also in law enforcement. Katerina had warned me that he might feel a little intimidated with me since his English is a little limited. I tried my best to use all my Greek vocabulary I could muster, and I think this put his at ease. If I could try Greek, he could try English. Language reciprocity. I had a good time talking to Alexandros with Katerina filling in the gaps if needed. We talked about all kinds of things: Katerini, politics (Greek, American, and global), pets, styles of wine, and Malakas (Greek word for men who are real a**holes).
Making Greek Coffee and Sampling Honeys… With a Serious Teacher and Beekeeper
Wednesday morning before we left to the beach, Alexandros invited us for coffee at his place. Not just any coffee… Greek Coffee. You see, Greek coffee is different. First, the coffee itself is different. It is a very fine powder that is not filtered before drinking. Second, it comes in a small cup (expresso size) because it is potent! Third, it has a characteristic foam, which can only be achieved by preparing it properly. And that means manual work, no machine! And lots of attention to detail.
I was told that Alexandros is known for making particularly good Greek coffee. So that morning, he was going to teach me. He made one coffee. Katerina translated as he explained in Greek. Then, it was my turn. I made the first one as he corrected me. I did good! So I made a second one, again under his watchful eye. Even better! And then… a third! Opa! I graduated from Greek coffee school. According to Alexandros, I am a natural Greek coffee maker.
Then, we had some breakfast. Turns out that Alexandros is not only a law enforcement officer and Greek coffee barista extraordinaire, he is also a beekeeper! An honest to god, beekeeper. He and his uncle have bees and take them around Mount Olympus and other areas so the honey they produce has the flavor of the mountainous flowers. He took out a few of his honeys, including pollen that they collect from the bees feet, and we sampled each one.
Beach Time… a lot of it!
After an extraordinary breafast of Greek coffee and honey, Katerina and I dedicated the rest of the day to one thing… beach time! Katerina and I took the 12:30 bus and got off at Kastro Beach. It’s named Kastro Beach after the castle that overlooks the water on the hill.
The sea was perfect. For a moment, we heard thunder and saw a dark, gray cloud surrounding Mount Olympus, but luckily, the bad weather strayed away and we were left with a calm sea.
The beach is made up of little, smooth pebbles. Imagine those little stones used for children play areas. I laid out facing the water a few inches from the sea. The smooth pebbles shifted under my weight and embraced my body like a bean bag chair. I fell asleep while the playful waves caressed my feet and tickled the tips of my splayed fingers. The contrast of the warm sun on my skin and the cold water relaxed my senses. For a while I even forgot where a work or what I did. There was only the sea…
A strong wave shocked me out of my revelry and invited me in. “I’m over here…” the wave said. “It’s nice in the water,” said another. I gave in to their siren song. In I went into the waters of the Aegean. The waves rocked me gently, erasing any trouble from my mind. Xalara… In my mind-numbing state, I began to pray. I felt thankful. Thankful for my family, thankful for my job, thankful for being able (physically and financially) to do this trip, thankful for my wonderful friends… in all, thankful for my life. Most of the time I ask for things, but today, in the sea, it was time to give thanks.
Passing the Torch… I am a Greek Coffee Barista Now
Before heading to dinner, we met Alexandros at the park. He had something for us. As it turned out… he had something for me. A Greek coffee maker!!! With a generous supply of Greek coffee. What a beautiful gesture, I thought. I promised I would record myself making the coffee… or better yet, do a video chat so we can all have Greek coffee together. It was a truly heart-warming gift.
Sardines at the Port… With a Side of Ouzo
My last night in Katerini, we went to dinner at the port. Katerina invited her neighbor Vasil to come with us. Vasil is a tall, gorgeous Greek woman with long blond hair. She wore a green dress that made her look like a model.
We went to the port and sat at a restaurant well-known for their seafood (the port, duh). We ordered family style: shrimp in a tomato sauce, grilled octopus, grilled sardines, fried calamari, Greek salad with feta cheese, and of course… a small bottle of ouzo. Opa! What a fabulous way to end the night!
I must try this Greek coffee!!!! Love the moment of thankfulness.