Welcome to Geneva is what the mountains chanted at me this morning as my plane descended into the Swiss Alps. Welcome to Geneva is what the fresh, crisp Swiss Pinot Gris and Aligote whispered to me from the depths of my wine glass. Welcome to Geneva is what the majestic white swans screeched at me from the freshness of the waters of Lake Leman. Enjoy your stay in Geneva is what a handsome Swiss stranger murmured to me after having sat for 8 hours next to me during the transatlantic flight. I think you might have guessed it… I’m in Geneva, Switzerland. And it has welcomed me with open arms.
At the time of this writing, it is 6pm and I am typing this blog from the cheerful and quirky Ruby Hotel Bar, located at the rooftop of the hotel building where I’m staying. The waitress just collected my empty wine glass (Swiss Aligote) and replaced it with a shot of espresso (it’s been a long day). The atmosphere can only be described as the coffee shop of my dreams. Outdoor and indoor seating with a view of the traditional buildings of Geneva. Floor to ceiling glass panes hug the building. Inside the bar, house plants add an air of mysteriousness to the scene and the mismatched furniture reminds you not to take yourself too seriously. People are happy and loud, bursting into lively conversation about their day and comparing their shopping. I am sitting back, staring at the whole scene, a smile and hot espresso foam on my red Dior lips. Bienvenue a Geneve. Welcome to Geneva…
Why Geneva?
I get this question a lot? Why did you decide to travel to Geneva? The answer is not straight forward. I’ve been wanting to go back to Switzerland ever since the first time I went in 2007 when I visited Luzern. Last year, on my trip to Greece, I made a stop in Zurich, and let me tell you, there was something about the mountains. They were calling to me! I cannot describe the pull they had. It was so strong, that I found myself, literally dragging my feet so I would miss my very tight connection. And then, my trusted neighborhood wine merchant, Matt, introduced me to a show on Hulu called “Cheese, a love story.” In one of the episodes, the host traveled to Switzerland to learn about making Gruyeres cheese and fondue. That’s when I said… I need to make this happen.
And I did! This trip will take me from Geneva, to Lyon, to Lausanne, to Gruyeres, and back to Geneva where I will indulge in cheese, wine and chocolate!
The Arrival
I was lucky. The whole journey went off without a hitch. Despite the three flights, two layovers, and one very tight connection in Chicago, it all went very smoothly. Overall the flight also went smoothly, a little too smoothly. Sometimes I need some slight turbulence to cradle me to sleep in those long flights. But with no turbulence to speak off and a wide selection of TV and movies from United, I did not do a lot of sleeping during the flight.
By the time we were flying over France, I was dead tired. My eyelids were heavy with unfulfilled sleep. But just as the plane descended onto Swiss airspace and speared through the cloud cover, the Swiss mountains greeted us in all their majestic glory. Sharp peaks covered in white snow shimmering in the early morning sun, just as the sunlight pierced through the dawn. It was the most breathtaking thing I had ever seen. The alps are so high, that they hug the clouds, holding them in place. The huddled white clouds bobbed between the mountain peaks, but at times, the clouds would spill over the rim of rock. It reminded me of when I bake pies, and the crust is holding together the eggy filling , but occasionally, the filling drips from the sides of the uneven crust.
The beauty of the Alps was all it took to jerk me awake. My handsome seatmate which happened to be a local gave me a few travel tips and wished me a happy vacation. Customs and immigration went off without a hitch… well, for me, anyway… one girl in our flight lost her passport and only realized it when she needed to present it to the immigration officer! Thing of my nightmares.
Ruby Hotel, Power Nap and Swans
I’m staying at the Ruby hotel in the City Center. According to my taxi driver, it is a new hotel. He was right. It is very modern and trendy. The rooms are super comfortable and quirky. I’m talking old school guitar speakers as decoration. And an all glass shower that butts out into the bedroom. The reception is located on the top floor, right next to the bar! That’s different! The receptionist was checking me in at the same time as he was fixing some breakfast cocktail. I arrived at 8:40 am to my hotel which meant that I had prepared with a change of clothes and basic toiletries packed on my carry on bag so I could change into fresh clothes while the hotel held my bags until the check-in time. But, lucky, lucky… the room was ready! I took a hot shower, took a quick power nap, blew dry my hair, and stepped out on the town.
My first instinct was to go towards the lake. I crossed Rue du Rhone, passed the luxury stores Louis Vuitton, Cartier, and Patek Philippe, and made it across to the Quai. In the blue waters of Lake Leman, white swans glide gracefully as ducks fight over the pieces of bread thrown by the children frolicking on the Quai. But don’t be fooled, those swans can’t always be trusted. The ducks don’t stand a chance when the white, graceful creatures flap their wings, dart out their long necks, and impose their full size to show who is boss.
Walks, Wine, and Wow… Designer Shops!
I walked all around the Jardin Anglais until I reached the Jet d’Eau. The famous water fountain that shoots a jet of water 140 feet in the air at a velocity of 200 km/h. It’s a fun walk. From one side, you have the lake, on the other, you have parks and food trucks. Wine stations are located every few yards, where you can get wine or beer and enjoy it at one of the many picnic tables facing the water. AND YES, I made a stop at these wine stations… and food trucks. I stopped at one that serves crepes. And oddly enough hot dogs. Yes, they sell both. The other trucks are unique as well. They offer a variety of cuisines. I saw Argentine empanadas, Thai food, and even a burrito one!
I then went to the Old Town and climbed the hill from where I had a spectacular view of the city and the alps. I passed the Hotel de Ville and the Bastion building, until I finally ended at the Parc des Bastions. It was a bit of a climb, but it was worth it.
I descended back to the Rue Bases and had lunch at Place du Molard where I enjoyed a traditional meal of fish soup and fish tartare. Accompanied by some good rose Pinot Gris of course. Delicious.
The rest of the evening, I spent it shopping. Well… window shopping, at least. I went to Versace, Valentino, Hermes, Cartier, Dior, Rolex, and all the designers and watch makers you can think off. Blocks and blocks of designer shops. Each with their own individual store. It was surreal. Lucky the person who can shop here, in the meantime, I’ll dream…