I arrived to Annecy on Thursday. Where has this place been all my life? Was my thought as the taxi swerved around pedestrians and other motorists on Avenue du Petit Port. To my right there was the bluest lake I’d ever seen framed on both sides by snow covered mountains and lush green hills. In the lake there was people on pedal boats, sail boats, paddle boards, and speed boat. And around the lake people lounged on the grass and rode up and down on bicycles. And everywhere there was busy restaurants and shops and lots and lots of people. There was a feeling of excitement in the air. A feeling of “I am in vacation because the weather if finally nice, damn it!” And I could feel it.
Annecy
Lake Annecy is nestled in the French Alps about 45 minutes away from Geneva and 57 km from Mont Blanc. It is known as the Venice of the Alps because of a series of canals in the old town. It is part of the Savoie department in France which is well known for its alpine cheeses like Reblochon and Raclette de Savoie.
Travel Tip: If you are visiting Annecy from Geneva, don’t take a train. Instead take a bus. It is faster (I made 50 minutes) and cheaper than the train.
Although Annecy is known for its old, medieval city center (just google Annecy and most pictures will be of the old town), I am not going to visit the Old Town at all. You see, what I didn’t know at first, is that Lake Annecy is made up of several towns and villages surrounding the lake. Annecy is the largest community. My hotel is located in the town Menthon Saint Bernard. However, if the weather is nice, you can rent a bike and travel through all the different towns by following the bike paths along the lake.
Palace de Menthon
I’m staying at the Palace de Menthon, a five star hotel on the banks of Lake Annecy across from the Chateau de Menthon. I decided to splurge on this hotel a little bit, but it was well worth it. The hotel is incredible. The vistas of the lake are breathtaking and overall the aesthetic is more in lines of lake Cuomo than anything else. Laws are perfectly manicured and the large stone staircase leads directly to the lake.
A Bit of Relaxation, Si Vous Plait
Check in is at four and I arrived at 11:45 am. But that was planned on my part because although check in is not until late in the day, I knew that the hotel has an indoor pool and I was planning to use it, room or no room.
My stay in Annecy will be one of relaxation. No plans, just go with the flow. I walked down the beautiful gardens of the hotel. Although the day promised a comfortable 73 degree day, the air was chilly.
I went down to the spa or as they call it the espace de bon être (a wellness area) to access the pool. In Europe, especially in a spa town like this one, it is normal to shower first then change into a robe and then be allowed to enter the pool. So I did just that. Entered the spa. Chose a stall and showered. The water was glorious on my tired body. I had not showered in over 24 hours and I was thankful to get some of the travel grime washed away.
Travel Tip: Most hotels that have pools will provide you a robe. It is customary for people to wear the robe on their way to the pool, at the pool, and when they leave the pool. Also, weirdly enough, some hotels in France ask that men wear speedos when using the pool. This particular hotel did not ask that, but many do.
In my comfy robe, I chose my chaise lounge by a large window facing the lake directly. I glided into the heated pool. Although heated, it was still cold to my liking. But I guess that compared to the freezing waters of the lake outside, this was considered warm. A French couple was also taking advantage of the pool and we chatted for a bit. That’s when I learned that it was actually a French holiday. Ascension Day. The day when the French celebrate the ascension of the Virgin Mary to heaven. Which explained why the lake was so busy. They asked if America also had an Ascension Day. Somehow I don’t think that would fly in the US.
After my refreshing dip, I went back to my chaise lounge. The swim had done me good and I felt my muscles and my mind relaxing. Listening to the lapping water of the lake and the echoes of the cavernous pool, I fell asleep wrapped in warm towels.
Up in the Attic
I awoke to the sound of a my phone ringing. Who could possibly be calling me? The hotel. My room was ready two hours before check in. Yay! I went back to the changing room and showered (you gotta shower when you enter and leave the spa, those are the rules), changed into my day old clothes and went upstairs to get checked in.
My room was located on the top floor in the attic. It might sound weird, but in France, it means that my room was at the very top where the roof begins to slant down. I had a direct view of the lake and if I cranked my neck to the right, I could see Chateau de Menethon on the opposite hill. The staff had taken care to make sure I felt welcome. On the small desk by the window, there was personalized note welcoming me to the hotel. They had also provided snacks: two Evian water bottles and two delicious merengue cookies (which I ate immediately).
After another shower (this one a proper one with all my own shampoos and beauty products), I changed into a light sweater and did my hair properly. Then I went out to explore the lake. I followed the walking path that clung to the lake banks. With so many people outside, the excitement was palpable.
The Energy of Annecy
Families walking together, teenagers sunbathing on the jetties, grandparents enjoying an ice cream with their grandkids. There were people in bicycles (or velos as they are called in French), people in boats, people paddle boarding, people posing for pictures. Even up in the sky, dozens upon dozens of paragliders dotted the sky with their colorful parachutes. In every direction there was activity and excitement.
I thought of renting a paddle board, but the lake was very choppy and I could see the paddle boarders struggle to keep their balance and ultimately saw them plunging into the cold waters of Lake Annecy. I did not want that to be my fate, so I decided to keep exploring on foot.
It was getting warmer. I walked for a few miles, listening to all the French conversations around me, trying to decipher the unique dynamic of each group. Finally, I went up to the main road and walked back to the hotel, this time following the mountain path that connected all the lake communities, which was also crowded with holiday goers, particularly those on velos. Velo cafes (bike cafes) dotted the road.
I was now very hot. I was now regretting my choice of wearing a sweater. The day had warmed up spectacularly. I was thirsty and wanted to stop somewhere for a boisson (a refreshing beverage). But alas, unlike the restaurants by the lake which were happily serving customers all day long, the restaurants up in the mountain road followed a different set of rules. They closed down in the middle of the day. Even the velo cafes. Same with the small convenience stores, and I was left to continue my walk thirsty until I reached the hotel.
Travel Tip: In France, the majority of restaurants and even stores will close in the middle of the day. This is especially true in small towns. More and more you see restaurants staying open in larger cities like Paris. It is always a good idea to carry water or small snacks just in case.
A Cold One On the Terrace
When I finally arrived back at the hotel, I was happy to see that the terrace was full of people enjoying apero (apero is a time between lunch and dinner when people have drinks or small snacks, similarly to a happy hour). I climbed the stairs and reached the terrace, sweaty from my walking. My seat faced both the lake and the Chateau d’ Menethon. I ordered a local bière blanc (a white beer). It was cold and light, the perfect refreshment for a day like this. Overhead, the paragliders circled around the mountains like nats. We even got to witness a rescue by helicopter since one had gotten stuck in the mountain.
Steak and Red Wine: Perfect Pairing
For dinner, my hotel recommended a restaurant on the lake, about a 10 minute walk from the hotel. I was seated at a small table facing the water and ordered a boeuf tartare with fries. People always give me a face when I explain that the boeuf tartare is a dish of raw steak cut into small pieces and seasoned with capers and onions. But it is amazing! To pair it, the waitress, Sabine, recommended a local red vin de Savoie made from Gamay grapes. It was light and fruity and provided a good balance to the red meat.
The air was now cold. Everyone had traded their short sleeves for jackets. I walked back as the last rays of the sun clung to the velvet sky and the street lights gave the edge of the lake an orange glow. It had been a wonderful day at Lake Annecy. And if you are contemplating visiting the Alps in the summer… I highly recommend this place.