On Thursday I rode the train south from Katerini to Athens. The journey takes about three and a half hours. I rode on a first class cabin watching the countryside as I listened to some podcasts. At about 5pm I arrived in Athens. My hotel – The Hera Hotel – was a short cab ride away. The Hera Hotel is a beautiful boutique hotel located across from the Anthropology Museum. I booked it for its prime location and elegant allure. But I didn’t have time to appreciate the plush accommodations and powerful AC. I was on a deadline. I had about an hour before my very important rendezvous.
Dinner at Opos Palia
I took a quick shower and got my hair and make-up done all while keeping a close watch on the clock. My phone pinged with the name and directions for a nearby restaurant. It was right in front of the hotel.
I met my friend Maria at Opos Palia, an traditional Greek restaurant. I was so excited. I hadn’t seen her since she decided to move to Greece in 2018. Maria had been my best friend when she was living in Des Moines. We did everything together. Tried new restaurants, drank a lot of wine, cooked together, attended all the local festivals, and had deep conversations about culture and our personal ambitions. When she left, it was a huge loss for me. Des Moines felt different when she was gone. We had said that when she moved to Greece I would go visit her. And in a way I meant it, but also, that’s what people say so as not to say “see you never, now that you are gone.” But here, at Opos Palia, it became real.
She ordered various Greek dishes: picked octopus, spicy meatballs with rice, Cretan salad… our table was crowded with food… and conversation. It felt like she had never left. It felt like I had seen her yesterday.
Drinks and a View of the Acropolis
After dinner we walked around the Acropolis. Night had descended and the old ruins of Antiquity shined bright against the inky sky. Maria took me to a rooftop bar for drinks and a wonderful view of the Acropolis. We spent a few hours chatting, talking about our family and jobs while the lights of Athens surrounded us. After hours of catching up, it was time to go back to my hotel.
The Ferry Across the Aegean
Early in the morning… and I mean really early (6:10 am), a taxi drove me from the Hera Hotel to the Piraeus port where I boarded my ferry destined to Naxos island. It was my first time on such a large ferry, yet it was comfortable and very, very spacious. I picked a nice spot close to the snack bar, ordered a freddo cappuccino, and then fell asleep for most of the boat ride. When I woke up, I saw mountains in the distance. It was an island. Then another. And far away, another. The boat was passing all these islands on the way to Naxos. It was beautiful. I felt like Odysseus. Except I hoped Poseidon wasn’t going to blow us away. Haha. Nerdy mythology joke. Enjoy!
Sunny, Beautiful Naxos
After five and a half hours at sea, the ferry finally docked at the port of Naxos. I was a little nervous since so many people were getting off at the same time. I followed the herd to the bottom of the boat and waited as the massive metal doors opened. The entire boat walked out of the ferry and down the port. From that point, I could see the beautiful town of Naxos facing the harbor. White buildings gleaming in the sun. Cafes and restaurants everywhere. Yachts and boats of all sizes crowded the seafront. I loved it immediately.
I found the taxi station and got in line hauling my luggage behind me. It was hot and the sun was fierce on my exposed skin. Since everyone descended the ferry at the same time, the situation to get a taxi was chaos. No order… just chaos. It was every man (or woman) for themselves. Being a solo travel can at times have its disadvantages. This was one of those times. The only way to get a taxi was if a crowd surrounded the taxi. Reminded me of ants crawling over its prey. I, being only one person, could not resort to those tactics. My only choice was to wait… in the hot, merciless sun… or was it? After all, the hotel was only a 15 mins walk away…
Off I went through the seaside, using my phone as navigation. The heat surrounded me. The cobblestones were my enemy. Tack, tack, tack. The wheels of my luggage bumped on the cobblestones. Drip, drip, drip. Sweat ran down my back, neck, and face. Yet, I was fascinated by the scene around me. Shops, boutiques, cafes, and bars lined the streets. I passed jewelry shops, and beach shops, and souvenir shops, and high end shops…
At last I arrived at Naxos Beach Resort Hotel. I was sweating so much. Salty drops fell in my eyes and even rolled into my mouth. The receptionist handed me some water and a tissue. I didn’t know whether to be thankful or embarrassed. Hmmm… maybe both?
Pool, Sea, Repeat
After a quick shower, I went to explore the hotel. It has a giant pool! Surrounded by chairs, tables, chaise lounges, and there was even a bar on the back. You know what I did next… ordered a freddo cappuccino. I picked a bed by the pool and plunged in. The water was marvelous.
After an hour in the pool, I walked down to the beach and got one of the umbrella’s that belongs to the hotel. St. George Beach is sandy. The sea is shallow. You can walk for many yards and still the water only grazes the bottom of your butt.
After some time on the beach, I went back to the pool and ordered a drink. It was a whole afternoon of Xalara… What stress? Stress can’t touch me… not here in Naxos.
A Sunset Worthy of Apollo (God of the Sun)
In the afternoon I got ready and walked down the harbor, DSL camera in hand snapping pictures of everything: boats, restaurants, the water, the buildings, the mountains surrounding the harbor… I walked wherever the wind took me. And it was taking me to the opposite end. Close to the port where the ferry dropped us off. At the end of a thin isthmus connecting the town to a small hill, the ruins of the Temple of Apollo rise over the sea. Behind them, the sun was setting… I climbed the hill and observed in awe as the sun set behind the mountains and the sea. It was a mystical experience. Standing at the temple of Apollo amongst the crowd as the sun set. It was so beautiful, it made me cry.
Dinner and Reflection
I picked a restaurant with a nice view of the harbor and had dinner: a Greek salad and a delicious grilled sea bass paired with the house white wine from Santorini. Here, drinking wine and enjoying a delicious meal, I looked around the restaurant. I was the only solo table. But it didn’t make me feel uncomfortable or self-aware. Rather, I took the time to observe the other tables around me. There were families and group of friends. Couples, old and young. And it made me thankful. Thankful for my family, for my friends… I’ve been all those tables. I’ve been the table surrounded by loud family members. I’ve been the table with friends and the group of girls traveling through Europe… I’m thankful that I’ve been able to do all these things… even traveling solo.
After dinner I walked back to the hotel through the labyrinth of small streets. Even late at night they were open, lit up, and lively with customers. Music emanated from rooftop restaurants. Back in the hotel, it was time to call grandma and unwind with some vino.
What is in store for tomorrow. Who knows… cuz after all… xalara!
